Getting a rabbit info

Items to get BEFORE getting a rabbit

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Cage:

Chicken coops can be used as a rabbit cage, remember to put wire mesh on bottom

Must be as large as you can afford and bunny proof. I don’t like triangle shaped cages I had one and rabbit in it fractured it’s back and had to be pts. Metal cages get hot during the day also. Wooden cages can be chewed on so wire mesh should be placed over wood so rabbit can’t chew at it. A run is a good option also to either place onto cage or just so rabbit can go outside and get some exercise. Large square mesh should be placed on bottom of outside cages to prevent rabbits digging and escaping. Cages should have either fly wire or shade cloth on them to prevent mosquito bites and flies getting into cage which carry diseases such as Myxomatosis and calicivirus. Choose whether rabbit is going to be housed outside or inside. Or choose 2 cages, one for both areas. Place in which cage is to be located eg. not in full sun in Summer time, out of draughts/rain in winter time. Protected from the weather outside. A quite place inside kept away from chemicals and oil diffusers/burners.

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Litter tray:

Should be plastic, easy to clean, I prefer ones with a rolled over lip so rabbits have trouble chewing them to bits. Corner ones are good as are ones with plastic grates. can use a cake rack or wood frame with small square wire mesh stapled on to prevent rabbit digging in litter tray

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Litter for trays:

Must be rabbit safe no clumping, crystal or any with chemicals added. Breeder’s choice cat litter (paper based pellet is safe). I was using sorbliss which is a hemp based pellet (great for odour control). Am now using horse mate which is a wood pellet great for odour control. Please note if using puppy pee pads rabbits can ingest these which can cause blockages (gi stasis) not recommended as may need to be surgically removed.

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Food bowls:

I like ceramic ones that are glazed as they are easy to clean. Rabbits still like to move them around their cages.

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Water bottles/bowls:

I prefer to use bottles over bowls as are more hygienic. Be sure to get one with ball that is easy to move, have found ones with springs in them are useless as are very hard for rabbits to use and they don’t use them due to this reason. Also go for a good brand as some are more likely to leak than others. If you choose to use a bowl it will need cleaning regularly as rabbits love to dig and flick things in their bowls like wood shavings etc. that will so make water dirty. Ceramic bowls are best as are heavier and harder to tip over making a mess and no water then for bunny to drink. Remember rabbits wont drink hot water on hot days

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Hay manger/rack/ball: (Rabbits need hay as a large portion of their diet for fibre requirements). And hay to go in it

These are good for keeping hay off of the ground and then getting dirty. Be sure to have one rabbits can’t get stuck in. I have had a rabbit fracture it’s spine hanging out of one before had to be pts. I find hay racks/mangers best placed on the outside of rabbits cage so they can’t get stuck in them. I have also heard of stories of rabbits getting their rings stuck on wire hay racks and fracturing their spines also. Don't use ones with the wire part sticking out for mineral wheels, this is the part they get stuck on. I use large wire baskets now for some no problems

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Toys:

Rabbits love to play with toys. They can be as simple as a carboard box/roll to wooden ones can be purchased online or made yourself using bunny safe materials. Tunnels are also popular with rabbits

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Nail clippers:

Rabbits nails just like their teeth continue to grow and their nails will need trimming on a regular basis so they don’t become too long and become uncomfortable for rabbits. overgrown nails can lead to sore hocks forming

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Brush/comb:

Rabbits need to be groomed regularly especially if long haired breeds such as cashmere/angora. Even rex/plush breeds of rabbits need to be groomed. Rabbits moult their fur with the seasons. Use slicker brush, shedeze/furminator, comb with rotating teeth or a pet glove with rubber bits

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Wooden chew blocks:

Rabbits teeth constantly grow and they chew to wear them down. They chew on hay to help wear them down, safe wood includes: pine (non treated) or apple tree branches/ thornless blackberries. Oaten hay is also important to help wear their teeth down. Some vets now say not to worry as hay and grass are enough.

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Vegetables and other food:

Rabbits love leafy green vegetables and a small amount of rabbit pellets (rabbits can be fed unlimited pellets up to 12 weeks of age , then 1/4 cup per day depending on breed).

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Bedding:

Can be straw or wood shavings, some use fleece but can be chewed and cause blockages

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Finances:

Remember if you rabbit gets sick it will need to go to the vets, do you have finances to cover this? Also rabbits require a calicivirus vaccination every 6 months and a check up by your vet will need to be done before administering a vaccine, as any sick rabbits can’t be vaccinated.

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Travel box:

A suitable travel box/carrier will need to be purchased to take rabbit to the vet and also to bring it home in.

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Bunny proofing

If you plan on keeping bunny inside some bunny proofing will need to be done. They love to chew electric cables and wood, whether this be chair legs doors or other wooden furniture.

Then when you have done some research on the breed you want buy a rabbit It will become a furry member of the family in no time Remember not to get a rabbit under 10 weeks old

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Test to see if you are allergic to rabbit fur or certain types of hay before you bring your rabbit home. Otherwise you may need to rehome it due to being allergic.

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What to look for when adopting a rabbit

Is the rabbit healthy looking check the following:

EYES (bright, clear and not runny)

EARS (clean no signs of flaky skin or scabs/crustiness)

TEETH (are to align properly)

BODY (check for and lumps and coat looks good/clean is free of mats, has no fur missing or any bumps and is not skinny or overweight)

BOTTOM is it clean?

NAILS check that they are not overgrown

FEET for sore hocks

GENITALS check they look right, no signs of split penis or syphilis

That the rabbit is alert has no breathing difficulties is not showing any signs of pain or aggression.

What size will the rabbit get to once fully grown?

What breed of rabbit is it?

How old is the rabbit?

Have they been handled/what is their temperament like?

Have you had a rabbit before? If not are you allergic? as some people can be allergic to rabbits or certain types of hay.

Adoption fee/price (This will range from pet to show/breeding quality)

Cages kept in are they clean? (if able to view them), most breeders don't allow people into their rabbitries due to biosecurity risks of calicivirus entering).

Who is looking after the rabbit? (Please don't expect your young children to do so)

Is a rabbit going to fit into your lifestyle? eg are you going to be working/starting study at college a lot and unable to spend time with your rabbit.

Can you afford a rabbit? Bills include, vet trips, de-sexing, feed including hay, bedding and toys etc.

Are you after 1 rabbit or 2? as desexing will need to be done if not breeding before bonding.

Research before adopting on husbandry, housing, feeding (proper diet/nutritional needs and requirements), exercise and socialization needs.

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Rabbit info

New to rabbit owning

I have 1 rabbit and got a new friend for it.

Or I just got 2 rabbits

Step 1 quarantine any new rabbit and do any treatments such as worming, mites, EC, cocci etc. Need to be quarantined for a minimum of 2 weeks, preferably 4 weeks. This is done in order to prevent any diseases or viruses ect. entering your rabbitry

Double check what sexes they are as some breeders and even vets get this wrong (can post pics on fb to find out or find a rabbit savvy vet to tell)

You will need 2 cages, 1 for each rabbit in case you have:

fighting occurring

are a male (buck) and female (doe)

They will need separating at 10 weeks old if you have a buck and doe or if fighting starts and are the same sex.

They will need to be kept separate at all times until 8 weeks after the buck/s has been desexed, this can be done from 12 weeks old or as soon as his testicles have dropped.

If you have 2 bucks may want to start rebonding from 6 weeks after they BOTH have been desexed. Some may never bond and some may take up to 6 months to bond

You can rebond them (buck and doe) after the 8 weeks after his surgery as some bucks are still fertile up to 8 weeks after desexing and he will need to heal after his surgery.

Your doe will also need to be desexed from 4-6 months old and again left to heal after surgery whether or not you leave them together at this time depends on fighting how she is going after her spay

If you have 2 does that fight again house separately until after desexed before bonding

Always find a rabbit savvy vet (list can be found on here pinned under announcements) and ensure rabbit/s have pain relief to go home with and critical care or critta care if needed if stop eating after surgery and NEVER fast a rabbit for surgery

If keeping a pair for breeding you need to wait until they reach adulthood/maturity before breeding

They need to be housed separately at ALL TIMES from 10 weeks old, other than for mating. Please keep an eye on them through out the mating as some can fight and always take doe to bucks cage as she can be very territorial of her space. Can put together for just a few fall offs or a day. Again if she attacks him she is not ready or wanting to mate so put her back in her cage. It may only take 5 mins before they mate after being put together

Rabbits can mate when younger but shouldn’t as still growing themselves and using what they eat to help themselves grow.

Some does of smaller breeds take 6 months to mature where as some of the larger breeds can take 12 months to mature

Bucks can be fertile from 12 weeks (3-4 months usually)

Always monitor any new rabbit for

Toileting (watch for signs of off poo or not urinating or trouble urinating)

Breathing (any unusual sounds or nasal discharge)

Eyes (not watery)

Eating and drinking (if not gi stasis will need to see a vet or force feed critical care or critta care if no blockage as if a blockage can make it worse)

Rehydration fluid given or wet vegetables if not drinking. Make any changes to diet gradually and ensure you have the food that was given by previous owner to change over gradually to the one you want to use

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CHECKLIST

Ensure a rabbit if young is at least 8-10 weeks old before bringing home and has only been weaned from 8 weeks of age (for the 2 weeks away from mum)

Better from 10 weeks old and weaned later at 8 weeks old as will have a better gut flora and immunity being with mum for longer. Find show club members for pets as they follow this practice and most care greatly for their rabbits

Check bun over to ensure is healthy before adopting. Remember you can always say no if it doesn’t look/seem right.

Have 2 cages if getting 2 rabbits. Remember they need to be kept separate unless desexed or for mating when old enough

Have change over food and ask if bun was drinking from a bowl/bottle. As some drinking from a bowl won’t know how to use a bottle

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